Neroli &silk Hair Growth Toner
While the formulation contains many ingredients and you might feel overwhelmed with new names and a ton of information I will suggest substitutions and ways to simplify this toner and still be great for the hair. Ready, let’s dive in!
First of all, it is important to comprehend what ingredients do what in the hair growth formula. Categorizing ingredients by function could help you understand the formulation process better.
functional ingredients
actives
botanical extracts
solvents
colorant, exfoliator, etc
The difference between an active ingredient and a botanical extract is that actives usually have data to support the claim while extracts properties are most of the time built on a customer’s attraction to natural ingredients, natural remedies, and so on and so forth. It doesn’t mean extracts don’t work at all it just means we don’t have enough studies to be sure that extracts do what the suppliers claim they do.
Let’s take a look at Procapil - (INCI: Butilene Glycol, Water, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Apigenin, Oleanoli Acid, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1) - Procapil™ is a combination of a vitaminized matriline with apigenin and oleanolic acid from olive tree leaves. It fights the follicle aging process to prevent hair loss. Cosmetically, this product is used in hair strengthening and anti-hair loss treatments such as lotions, conditioners, and leave-on products (source). It showed significant hair growth improvement in studies. You can take a look at them here and here.
Now, Hazel Leaf Extract (INCI Glycerin and Water and Corylus Avellana Leaf extract) is believed to be astringent and soothing to the scalp and face but so far there are no clinical studies to support that claim. That’s why I wouldn’t call it an active ingredient.
I included even more actives and absolutely gorgeous ingredients in my Neroli and Silk Hair Toner as you can see in my formula down below.
🍃Neroli and Silk Hair Growth
A 5.00% Aminopeptid for Skin and Hair
A 4.00% Provitamin B5 - Panthenol (Solution)
A 3.00% Redensyl
A 3.00% Witch Hazel Leaf Extract
A 3.00% Procapil
A 3.00% FOLLICUSAN DP
A 3.00% Silk Aminoacids
B 50.40% Neroli hydrosol (solvent, the base of our toner, can be subbed by water)
B 17.00% Immortelle Hydrosol (solvent)
C 3.00% Heptyl Glucoside SEPICLEAR™ G7 (solubilizer, natural, helps to incorporate oil-soluble ingredients into water formulations)
C 0.50% Red Pepper CO2 Extract
C 0.10% HOTFLUX (Vanillyl butyl ether)
D 4.00% Glycerin
D 1.00% Euxyl PE9010 (preservative, oil-soluble, has to be mixed with a humectant to be properly dispersed throughout the water-based formulations)
1. Mix the A phase.
2. In a separate beaker combine the B-phase ingredients.
3. Slowly add the B phase to the A phase while mixing.
4. In a separate beaker combine C-phase ingredients and slowly add to the AB mixture.
5. Test the pH and adjust it to 5.8 -6.5.
✒️✒️✒️I am sure many of the ingredients that you see in my formulation are totally new to you and that’s ok. You don’t have to use everything I did to make an amazing hair toner.
Most of the active ingredients are bought from an amazing Ukrainian supplier Beurre that delivers worldwide. I will link them directly in case you’re interested. ❗NOT sponsored.
INGREDIENTS OVERVIEW
1. Aminopeptid for Skin and Hair
INCI ( Hydrolyzed placental protein, Triticum Vulgare Protein, Avena Sativa Kernel Protein, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Beta-Glucan)
Application: cool-down phase
Usage Rate: 3-5%
Solubility: water
Properties:
hair bounce
restorative
improves skin elasticity
moisturizing
hair moisturizing
improvement of hair structure
improves hair strength
skin nourishing
hair nourishing
hair shine
2. Provitamin B5 - Panthenol (Solution)
INCI: Panthenol (and) Aqua
Application: cool-down phase
Usage Rate: 1-5%
Solubility: water
Properties:
anti-inflammatory
hair moisturizing
hair shine
hydrating
improvement of hair structure
improves barrier properties of the skin
improves skin elasticity
moisturizing
reduction in transepidermal water loss
relieves dry skin
relieves itchy skin
skin hydration
skin softener
toning
soothes irritation
3. Redensyl
INCI: Glycerin (and) Aqua (and) Sodium Metabisulfite (and) Larix Europaea Wood Extract (and) Glycine (and) Zinc Chloride (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Application: cool-down phase
Usage Rate: 1-3%
Solubility: water
Properties:promotes hair growth
fights hair loss
improvement of hair structure
hair straightener
improves hair strength
eyelashes strengthener
promotes lashes growth
Description: Follicusan is an active complex with which you can prepare a remedy for strengthening hair, against hair loss, and combating alopecia. This active can be added both to rinse-off cosmetics (shampoos) and to leave-in serums and sprays for hair roots. It is crucial to take into account that the most effective will be a leave-in product that remains on the hair roots. Rinse-off products show minimal effectiveness due to the lack of prolonged contact with the active substance with the hair.
INCI: Glycerin (and) Aqua (and) Sodium Metabisulfite (and) Larix Europaea Wood Extract (and) Glycine (and) Zinc Chloride (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
ph Range - > 5.8
Application: cool-down phase
Usage Rate: 3-5%
Solubility: water
Properties:hair repair
fights hair loss
scalp health
eyelashes strengthener
promotes hair growth
promotes lashes growth
5. Silk Aminoacids
Description: Silk amino acids are a water-soluble ingredient that is used in the formulation of skincare and hair care products. It has a lower molecular weight than silk hydrolyzate and penetrates deeper into the skin and hair.INCI: Water, Silk Amino Acids, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
ph Range -
Application: cool-down phase
Usage Rate: 0,5 - 3%
Solubility: water
Application: cool-down phase
Properties:hair moisturizing
moisturizing
improves hair strength
repairing
protecting
Description: external use only CO2 Chili pepper extract is made through supercritical CO2 extraction.
INCI: CO2 Сapsicum annuum Extract
ph Range -
Application: cool-down phase
Usage Rate:0.2 - 0.5%
Solubility: oil
Application: in oil at a temperature of 35-45 °C
Properties:warming
anti-inflammatory
enchance microcirculation
skin penetration enhancer
7. HOTFLUX
Description: is a unique ingredient that induces a persistent and gentle sensation of warmth on the skin, triggering a cascade of neural signals that are natural to our body. HotFlux has a warming effect and enhances microcirculation, thereby causing active hair growth and fat burning in anti-cellulite products, used in lip volumizing products and in ointments to relieve muscle pain. An increase in blood flow enhances the delivery of nutrients to the hair shaft.
INCI: Vanillyl butyl ether
ph Range -
Application: cool-down phase, do not use undiluted on the skin.
Usage Rate: 0.01-0.5%
Solubility: oil
Application: below 40C
Properties:warming
enchance microcirculation
promotes hair growth
firming
plumping
lip plumping
I am super excited about this ingredient and I’ll be definitely making some cool products with it.
Amazon links to some of the infredients
Amazon links to some of the tools you need to make this product
Feel free to substitute hydrosols for other hydrosols or distilled water
Now, we can reformulate and simplify my original formula and make a simple hair toner/hair tonic/hair mist whatever you want to call it.
Soothing Hair Toner
Refreshing Hair Toner
I hope you enjoyed this blog post and if you have any questions drop them in the comments down below!
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