Making Herbal and Flower-Infused Oils
Recently I've been researching how to make herbal extracts and infusions. I've made some glycerine-based extracts and it worked great. Maybe I'll make a separate post on this subject in the future.
Next, I really wanted to make some oil infusions to boost skin loving properties of my anhydrous formulations.
anhydrous = no water or water-soluble ingredients (hydrosols, glycerine, water-soluble actives, etc)
aqueous = contains water, water-based.
Examples of anhydrous formulations:
As you can see, the possibilities are endless! The fun thing is that once the oil infusions are ready, you can substitute any oil in your recipe for a lovely herb-boosted one to add benefits to your product.
How should we start? Let's take a few things insto consideration:
1. Choose your oil
Basically, you can use any oil for making infusions, but I highly recommend a lightweight oil with a stable shelf life.
- sunflower oil
- safflower oil
- fractionated coconut oil
- apricot kernel oil
-sweet almond oil
2. Choose your method.
There are many methods out there, and some are easier than others. So far, I've tried cold infusion and double boiler infusion.
- For the cold processed method, you need to weigh your dry herbs or flowers into a glass jar, add your oil and place the glass jar in a place where the sun can reach it (sun infusion). Then, shake it a few times per week. It takes about 4-8 weeks for the infusion to be ready. You can also leave the glass in your cupboard (room-temperature infusion). Well, that's how I unfused my chamomile oil, and it worked great.
You need to weigh your herbs and oil into a jar or a glass beaker for the hot process method and place it in a water boiler for 2-3 hours. Your oils shouldn't get too hot; 50-55C is enough. You can use a yogurt maker or slow cooker for this step too.
3. Choose your herb or flower.
- It is most important to make sure your herbs are completely dry. After that, you can infuse almost any flower, herb, or even spice that you want. The most commonly used herbs/flowers for oil infusions are:
- calendula (calming, soothing, healing)
- chamomile (anti-inflammatory, antiseptic)
- rose (may moisturize, reduce inflammation)
- plantain (soothing, reduces itchiness)
- dandelions (anti-inflammatory, toning)
- peppermint (antiseptic and antibacterial properties, soothes irritations)
- vanilla beans (rich in antioxidants, rejuvenating, and it smells amazing)
4. Add antioxidant (Mixed Tocopherols aka Vitamin E)
It will prolong the shelf life of your oils.
Basic Ratios
0.5% Antioxidant
10-15% herbs
84.5-90.5% oil
When making 100g of oil infusion, you'll need
15g of herbs
84.5g oil
0.5g Vitamin E
1) Weigh your herbs.
2) Add oil
3) For cold-processed infusion, you can add antioxidants right away. You need to add Vitamin E once your infusion has reached 40C or lower for hot proceeds infusion.
4) Once the infusion is complete, carefully strain your herbs into a clean, sanitized glass gar, and don't forget to label your oils if you make multiple infusions like me.
My infusions are sunflower oils and:
rose petals
immortelle
plantain
cornflower
calendula
chamomile
jasmine
I will be making many products with my newfound herbal love so stay tuned!